On Wednesday night, the 13th, at the LACMA museum in Los Angeles, amidst a Hollywood atmosphere reminiscent of the golden age, Dior presented its Cruise 2027 collection under the direction of creative director Jonathan Anderson, inspired by film noir and cinematic dreams.
After the spectacle presented by Chanel in its last Cruise collection in Biarritz (article 02 of the blog), I believe that, with Dior, the element of surprise was absent. I was left with the feeling of pieces already seen, despite the exuberant embroidery and fringes being the result of excellent, almost sublime, handcrafted work.
Galliano’s archives revisited, which, this time, did not achieve the same impact. And of course, flowers. Many flowers. “Flowers for spring? Groundbreaking.”
The bags, inspired by the interiors of Cadillacs, some of which were displayed in the setting, did not excite me. And the newspaper bag with Galliano’s sacred print fell far short of Dior’s standard. More nostalgia than desire.
There was a melancholic beauty on the runway. Delicate silhouettes, transparencies, cinched waists, and references to the decadent glamour of Hollywood appeared like characters from an old film. Everything was very beautiful. The setting carried that silent glamour of film noir: impeccable women, low lighting, dramatization, and mystery.
But I can’t deny that, despite the beauty of the dresses, my eyes lit up precisely where there was a contrast with the delicacy. It was in the suits, coats, and blazers that I truly identified the brand.
The meticulous work of the threads and the frayed hem of the revamped version of the classic Bar coat enchanted me. Even the modern combination with ripped jeans, in the way the piece was displayed in the museum, immediately became a true dream purchase.
While Dior stamped its very high sartorial level, it also presented a feminine collection, yes, but not surprising.
With so much inspiration from Hollywood’s golden age, it would have been a delight to hear B.B. King or Nat King Cole while the models walked the runway. What was lacking was provocation in the City of Angels.
